Content of the material
What the DIY Case Does and How You Should Use It
This DIY case is not meant to be used as your primary phone case. Instead, it’s a secondary case to use if you want to attach your phone to a tripod, experiment with optics that aren’t built specifically for your phone and securely attach your phone to metallic surfaces and other DIY rigs. Keep in mind that this case has magnets all over it. You’ll want to keep it away from subway cards, key cards, ATM cards and anything else that has a magnetic strip.
This project has three components. First, we’ll glue some very strong magnets to the bottom of your phone case. Putting washers on the magnets gives your phone feet and lets it stand up on its own. The magnets will let you use any metal surface as a secure base for steady shooting.
Even without its washer feet, the case stands up on its own on a metal base.
Second, we’ll create a metal tripod-mount plate that the magnets can stick to. This will let you use your phone with a standard tripod, so that’s nice.
The case mounts magnetically to a simple rig that screws onto a tripod.
And third, we’ll put a metal ring around the case’s lens hole that you can use as a lens mount. It won’t let you attach a DSLR lens to your phone, but it will let you use lenses made for other devices: Photojojo’s magnetic lenses, lens attachments for the Flip camcorder and even objects like magnifying glasses and door peepholes if you use other high-powered magnets to secure them (more on that later).
The third step in the project (attaching a metal plate around the lens hole in your case) is a useful one for anyone who wants to experiment with DIY optics and third-party accessories, but keep in mind that you’ll need to supply your own lenses. What’s more, if you already have clip-on lens attachments such as the Olloclip, you should continue to use those with your primary phone case. Those accessories won’t fit this rig once you attach the lens-mount plate.
Step 8: In Depth Understanding Magnifications
•Magnification of images•mag·ni·fi·ca·tion\ˌmag-nə-fə-ˈkā-shən\noun: the act of making something look larger than it is : the act of magnifying something: the larger appearance of an object when it is seen through a microscope, telescope, etc.•Focal LengthFocal length is the distance from the magnifying lens to the object behind the lens when the object is in focus. To put it another way, the optimal distance between the object being magnified (when it is in clear focus) and the magnifying glass is the focal length.•Magnification PowerAs the magnification power increases, the focal length decreases; conversely, as the magnification power decreases, the focal length increases. The stronger the optical power of the magnifying lens, the shorter the required distance between the magnifier and the object behind the lens.For example, if you are looking at a diamond through a 10x loupe, the distance between the diamond and the magnifying loupe will be very small (about an inch or so away). The focal length is therefore about an inch. Your eye will also need to be very close to the loupe.If you are looking at fine print with a 2x hand-held magnifying glass, the magnifying glass will need be several inches away (roughly 6 to 8 inches) from the fine print to bring it into optimal focus. The focal length in this example is 6 to 8 inches.If you are not using a magnifier at its correct focal length, the object you are viewing will appear out of focus, distorted, or upside down when trying to view it through the magnifying glass. •Relationship of Lens Size to Magnification•Please keep in mind, as the lens size (diameter) of the magnifier lens increases, the magnification power of the magnifier decreases. As the lens size of the magnifier lens decreases, the magnification power of the magnifier increases. This is a result of the amount of curvature in the magnifier (lens). Magnification power is a result of the amount of curvature in the magnifier lens. As the lens size increases, the amount of curvature in the lens decreases, resulting in lower magnification power of the lens. As the lens size decreases, the amount of curvature in the lens increases, resulting in higher magnification power of the lens. This is why higher magnification lenses are generally smaller in size than lower magnification lenses.
Padded Lens Case Instructions:
Step 1: Cut your fabric and flex foam to the correct size for the height and girth of the lens
In this tutorial, I made a padded lens case for my 50mm prime lens with the lens hood on it. You will need to measure the height of your lens. My lens and hood measure approximately 4 inches. You will then add 2.5 more inches for seam allowances and room for the drawstring closing. To measure the length needed around the lens, I took the foam and rolled the lens in it until it completely surrounded the lens. Then you add a couple of inches for room and seam allowances. I ended up with the following measurements. You can reference the picture below to see the final cuts.
Flex Foam: 11” x 5”
Outside and Inside fabric pieces: 12” x 6.5”
Step 2: Cut your fabric and flex foam for the base of the case
To cut the bottom of the lens case, I simply placed the lens, lens side down, on the foam and drew a circle about ½” away from the lens. For the fabric pieces, I then placed the foam piece on the fabric and added another 2” for seam allowance. I ended up with the following measurements:
Base Flex Foam: 4” diameter circle
Base fabric pieces: 6” diameter circles
Step 3: Sew or the body of the padded lens case
This happens in several steps, which I will explain, and show with pictures.
- Align your fabric body pieces right sides together and stitch up the bottom seam
- Next stitch up both sides, leaving 1” at the top for your drawstring opening
- Turn your body pieces right sides out, making sure to push out the corners
- Insert your flex foam into the pocket
- Sew tightly above the flex foam, all the way across the body of the lens case
- This next part can be tricky, but you will need to fold in and press the top portion of the fabric pieces before sewing the top of the case to make sure you have a nice clean edge to the top of your case
- Once you have folded and pressed the top edge, sew along the length as close to the top edge of the case. Once you complete that sewing, you should have a ¾” pocket along both sides of the case for your drawstring (we will insert the ribbon on the last step).
Step 4: Sew the base piece for the padded lens case
To do this you sandwich the flex foam between the two pieces of fabric with right sides out. Make sure to sew as close to the foam piece as you can so that the foam is snug and won’t move around. There will be about 1” of extra fabric left around the foam and this is exactly what you want. This extra fabric is what will be used to attach the base piece to the body of the case.
Step 5: Pin your body and base pieces together to make the padded lens case.
To do this you will first make a circle with the body of the case and pin the 2 edges together with some overlap. If you have a small enough table on your sewing machine you can stitch the base edges together with an invisible seam. I do not have that type of machine and had to hand stitch the body closed.
Next, you will want to attach the base piece by pinning the base piece to the body so that the extra fabric on the base piece is attached to the inside body of the lens case.
Finally, you can sew or hand stitch the base piece to the body. Again I had to hand stitch because I don’t have a small enough table on my sewing machine for this particular lens case. If you are making a really big case, you will be able to use the sewing machine.
Step 6: Insert the ribbon into the hole left for the drawstring closure.
To do this, I opened a paper clip halfway, tied the end of my ribbon onto it, and then used it to pass through the hole of the case. You can make your drawstring as long or short as you would like.
There you have it! A handmade padded lens case with your personality and style. As you can see in a lot of the pictures, my sewing isn’t perfect, but the end result is great. So don’t be afraid to try this if you are a novice sewer. If you liked this tutorial and would like to see more let me know in the comments.
Step 2: Steps
I will focus the steps on how to make a Biconvex lens out of used clear plastic empty bottle.,Because the cardboard VR is useless without the Lens (the most important part of the VR) So anyone who will try this project can go forward and start the Cardboard VR casing.,And some of the images here shows how i build the Google Cardboard VR.,(you can find steps on how to build or assemble a Google VR cardboard here in instructables and in various websites or in youtube).So i’ll start first with the lens.Then followed by the cardboard VR.•STEPS TO MAKE LENS1.Find an empty clear bottle with a good “Curvature”2.Then make a circular template (25mm diameter)on a sheet of cardboard/paper.As seen on image.3.Then cut the marked you made on plastic bottle using scissors.4.Make and cut at least 4 pcs of this.,because you’ll need 2 pcs together to create a a single biconvex lens5.Combine 2 pcs together to create a biconvex shape lens.6.Carefully sealed all the circumference sides of the biconvex shape plastic you just joined.7.Now that you have sealed all the sides using quickdry epoxy.Fill your syringe with clear water and carefully inject it on the biconvex shape until you filled it up.*to removed bubbles-just pinched or gently squeeze the lens-to slowly remove all the big bubbles in it.8.After successfully removing bubbles filled it with water(the lens).,Sealed it again.Seal the hole you just made by syringe needle.9.Let it dry for a few minutes..Test it-if it magnifies things.Try to magnify small things-(like printed letters).10.After succesfully made a biconvex lens that magnifies things up.,Repeat the procedure for your second and last biconvex lens.*If you successfully magnifies things up..Congratulations.!.,your good to go on building your own Google Cardboard VR.,•It’s fun building things up by youself.•Next Images is how i build my Google Cardboard VR.Though it’s not so very elaborate steps,,but you can google it for more elaborate one.,specially regarding the use of magnets to control your phone while inside the VR cardboard.•i dont use any magnets on my VR Cardboard.Will be discussed in some parts of this instructables.
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